In a return to New Orleans, a search for what's new and affordable

New Orleans' French Quarter is a labyrinth of wrought iron and stucco, with paths leading to hidden talents, quaint courtyards and liquor-induced heartache. Day and night, life springs from its streets, which provide the connective tissue for a city that refuses to die.

The entire city engages the senses, from the wafting aroma of fresh-baked bread pudding to the putrid smell of Bourbon Street revelry.

Ten years and one monster hurricane had passed since my last visit to New Orleans. My goal was to discover what was new or affordable, in the aftermath of Katrina's destruction and Wall Street's meltdown.

AFFORDABLE EATS

Creole restaurants such as Commander's Palace, Arnaud's Restaurant and Emeril's New Orleans are legendary. But with one eye on our wallet, we decided to forgo upscale ambience in favor of value.

Johnny and Betty De Grusha started Johnny's Po-Boys (511 St. Louis Street) in 1950, and the small eatery remains a popular lunch spot. French bread that's crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside is stuffed with a choice of more than 50 fillings. Adventurous eaters might opt for alligator sausage or boudin, but the traditional breaded shrimp po-boy ($10) dressed with lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and pickles will not disappoint. Simply put, it's the best I've ever had.

At the Camellia Grill, bow-tie clad waiters serve famous omelets ($7.49) and ice cream freezes ($3.69), along with a good dose of camaraderie. The original location (626 South Carrollton Avenue) opened in 1946, and it's still a treat to ride the St. Charles street car to enjoy a greasy burger ($3.99) or piece of apple pie ($3.69) warmed on the grill. Tourists won't be disappointed by the new, larger French Quarter location (540 Chartres Street), which opened late last year.

The courtyard of the Gumbo Shop (630 St. Peter Street) is a great place to try a combination plate of crawfish étouffée, jambalaya and shrimp creole ($12.99). Reasonable prices and a rollicking atmosphere make this a good place to sample New Orleans cuisine. End the meal on a sweet note by trying the hot bread pudding with whiskey sauce ($4.99).

Our culinary adventure came to a crawl when we indulged in entomophagy, or bug eating, at the Audubon Insectarium (423 Canal Street). A bug's life and yours will cross paths at the Bug Apetit cafe, where visitors choose from delicacies such as hoppin'-herb dip or six-legged salsa. A crunchy, vanilla-covered cricket had me picking my teeth for the next hour.

New Orleans, New Orleans sightseeing, New Orleans attractions

The largest city of Louisiana State, New Orleans is a city that simply abounds in beauty. Nestled around the curving River Mississippi, the metropolis is known as a hub for culture, music and cuisine. New Orleans is a pulsating destination that has the best of attractions to keep travelers hooked. The city is visited by travelers from various parts of the word throughout the year.

Mardi Gras held in February turns the whole city into festivel mood. The streets get filled with a riot of color and music. The New Orleans Jazz Festival is another popular festival. In fact, there are a huge number of festivals such as Satchmo festival in August, the French Quarter Festival and the Jazz Heritage festival in April or May and The crawfish festival in March.

Louisiana is among the most ethnically rich states in the United States, and this is evident in New Orleans as well. The culture here is a mosaic that is enriched by people of several backgrounds.

Although the natural disasters that came in the form of Hurricanes Katrina and Rita caused enormous damage, the city has since recovered.

The French Quarter is one of the best places to visit in North Orleans. The architecture here is simply superb. There are a number of fun places to hang out here, such as the bars at Bourbon Street.

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The Unofficial Guide to New Orleans

Fodor's New Orleans 2009

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